I have been receiving some e-mails recently from people asking how to read amigurumi patterns. I always assumed it was straight forward enough, but I often forget what it was like when I first started crocheting. Trying to interpret patterns can seem like trying to understand a foreign language with all the symbols and abbreviations! And so, I thought I would take the time to explicitly and clearly describe how to read amigurumi crochet patterns as I find it very exciting that people are getting inspired to learn how to crochet after seeing my amigurumi. I want to make the learning process as easy as possible so everyone can make their own stuffies!
Please reference my “Amigurumi for Beginners” blog post to see videos on how to do the basic stitches as well as materials you will need to make your own amigurumi. Here is a chart showing common abbreviations that you will find in some of my crochet patterns (see more extensive list here):

Next, I will go through one of my patterns (e.g. Teddy Ornaments) and explain what the instructions mean, row by row.

Translation: Work six single crochets in a magic ring. The “R” stands for “Round” because we are crocheting in the round in a continuous spiral (could also be denoted by “Rnd”). The “R” could also stand for “Row” (when working in rows, you usually turn your work at the end of each row and work back across the top of the previous row for a square or rectangle). The number in brackets at the end shows you how many stitches you should have completed during that round. I always count how many stitches I’ve completed to double-check my work compared to the pattern to ensure I haven’t skipped a stitch or accidentally done one too many. [Note: in my earlier patterns, Round 1 often looked like this: “R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)”- this is interchangeable with the R1 above as I was not using the Magic Circle back then.] See how to do the Magic Circle here.

[Note: Please IGNORE the number of stitches in each round and the number of rounds in these photos as they are not accurate. I will be using the pictures for reference to show how many single crochets should be worked into each stitch.]

Translation: Work two single crochets in each single crochet around. Since you are crocheting two stitches in each stitch around, you are doubling the stitch count (from 6 to 12) so that your circle expands outwards. Patterns that say “inc in next st all round” mean the same thing.


Translation: Work one single crochet in the next stitch. Then work two single crochets in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times.


Translation: Work two single crochets in the next two stitches (one in each). Then work two single crochets in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times.


Translation: Work three single crochets in the next three stitches (one in each). Then work two single crochets in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times.

You keep following this general pattern for the rest of the rows as your ball expands outwards (e.g. Rows 6-8 in the Teddy Ornaments pattern), doing one single crochet in each stitch and then doing two single crochets in the next stitch every once in a while. Eventually, the ball will need to keep its shape for the middle part without expanding or decreasing, and it will look like this in the pattern:

Translation: Work one single crochet in each stitch all around. As you can see, there is no increasing or decreasing and no asterisks.

You keep doing one single crochet in each stitch all around for a number of rows (R9-20 in the Teddy Ornaments pattern), maintaining the same number of stitches in each row until it is time to decrease and close up our ball (in this case, 48 stitches).

Translation: Work six single crochets in the next six stitches (one in each). Then decrease over the next two stitches. Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times. I highly recommend doing the “Invisible Decrease” to ensure that there are no holes or bumps in your amigurumi. Check out my blog post here to see how to do “The Invisible Decrease”.


Translation: Work five single crochets in the next five stitches (one in each). Then decrease over the next two stitches. Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times.

You keep decreasing the number of stitches row by row by doing a number of single crochets, and then doing an invisible decrease every so often. Eventually, your ball will close up. Along the way, you will add safety eyes, perhaps embroider a nose or a mouth, and add stuffing.
I hope you found this blog post helpful! Please feel free to add any suggestions and tips, and do pass this post along to your friends who are just learning how to crochet or wanting to make amigurumi! I’ve linked this post to my “Amigurumi for Beginners” post here, and I’ve also updated it by adding some resources that can help you learn how to attach and sew your amigurumi parts together since I’ve received some questions about it. Don’t hesitate to e-mail me or leave a comment if you have any further questions. I’m so happy that people have been inspired to try my patterns after seeing my designs, and I hope that this will be a helpful resource for you all! Happy crocheting :)

Who can resist Snuggles the Penguin with his sweet face all bundled up in his removable scarf? Crochet your very own and he’ll make a great friend every season of the year!

Make this adorable Sweetheart Bunny for your friends and family to show them your love this Valentine’s Day! Or make one for yourself ^__^ This little sweetie with her dainty heart and pretty bow will warm your heart!

It’s the Year of the Dragon this year! To celebrate, crochet your own fire-breathing cuties in a rainbow of colours for yourself or for your friends!
After all this time, I’ve finally joined Ravelry! For those of you who don’t know, Ravelry is a wonderful social networking site for both crocheters and knitters, and a place to share information about yarn and patterns. You can keep track of your projects and see what other people are working on too! I can’t believe how many projects are in their database! I’m slowly trying to add my own patterns and get familiar with the features, but so far it’s been fun exploring around and connecting with the very friendly community of Ravelers from around the world :) You can check out my profile here and be my friend :D I put a lot of effort into writing down my patterns and typing them up (haha, as pictured above), and I take great joy in being able to share them with you all and getting such great feedback! If you haven’t joined Ravelry yet, come join the fun!

Get ready to “amigurumi-fy” your Christmas trees with these adorable round teddies all bundled up in their colourful scarves! Whether you prefer pandas, koalas or ordinary teddies, they’re sure to add a touch of cuteness and craftiness to your trees this season!
Materials:
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). Please follow along with my blog post here to see step-by-step photos.
HEAD/BODY
Using desired colour,
R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *Sc 6, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9-20: Sc 48 ***For Panda, change to black yarn after finishing Row 11. Then switch to white yarn after finishing Row 19.
R21: *Sc 6, dec 1*, rep 6 times (42 sts)
R22: *Sc 5, dec 1*, rep 6 times (36 sts)
R23: *Sc 4, dec 1*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
Attach safety eyes (for panda and koala, cut eye roundies from felt, make a small x, and place safety eyes through before attaching). Embroider nose and smile with embroidery floss. Begin stuffing head.
R24: *Sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R25: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R26: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
R27: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end.
(For Panda, R1-11 are white, R12-19 are black, and R20-27 are white).
SCARF
Using desired colour,
Ch 62
R1: Starting in third chain from hook, half double crochet (hdc) 60. Fasten off.
R2: Join middle colour (white for my scarves) with sl stitch in first stitch. Ch 1. Sc 59. Fasten off.
R3: Join original colour (from Row 1) with slip slitch in first stitch. Ch 2. Hdc 59. Fasten off.
Add fringe. See my photos here or video here on how to do this. Trim fringe to desired length. Glue or sew scarf around bear just below mouth to make them cozy and snug.
TEDDY & PANDA EARS (make 2)
Using brown or black yarn,
R1: 5 sc in Magic Ring.
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (10 sts)
R3-4: Sc 10.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew open end together. Sew ontop of head.
KOALA EARS (make 2)
Using gray yarn,
R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring.
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
R3-5: Sc 12.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew open end together. Sew ontop of head.
* Loop black cord through top of teddy’s head. Tie the ends in a knot and hide it in teddy’s head. Attach teddy ornament to tree with ornament hooks.
* Or, make a series of chain stitches and use it to attach teddy to the tree.
Have a very blessed and Merry Christmas, everyone :) May these teddies bring some warmth, joy and love into your homes this season! I would love to see your versions of these teddies on your tree, so please send me photos of your work through my e-mail (all_about_ami@hotmail.com), facebook page or twitter!
[Update #1: People have been sending me photos of their own teddy ornaments, and I’ve compiled them all in a Crochet Corner post! Check out everyone’s own rendition of my teddy ornaments here.]
[Update #2: Anne of “A Gamer’s Wife” has modified my pattern using thicker, worsted weight yarn. She has clearly laid out her edits in her blog post here. Check it out if you want your ornaments to remain the original size but you want to use thickern yarn!]

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (December 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
Who doesn’t love the minions from “Despicable Me”? Make your very own detailed minion with removable goggles and removable overalls with my free crochet pattern!

Materials:
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). I strongly recommend checking out my blog post here to see step-by-step photos and accompanying descriptions if you are attempting to make this minion. This pattern is quite intricate and is recommended for those with some amigurumi experience (not a beginner’s project). It takes some time to crochet all the different parts, but it’s well worth it in the end!
HEAD/BODY
Using yellow yarn,
R1: 7 sc in magic ring. (7 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (14 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (21 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (28 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (35 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (42 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (49 sts)
R8: *Sc 6, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (56 sts)
R9: *Sc 7, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (63 sts)
R10-55: Sc 63
***Work on hair. Cut strands of yarn measuring about 2”. Tie knots on one end. Pull yarn through head so knot remains on underside. When finished adding hair, trim as needed. Rub ends with glue to prevent fraying.
R56: *Sc 7, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (56 sts)
R57: *Sc 6, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (49 sts)
R58: *Sc 5, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (42 sts)
R59: *Sc 4, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (35 sts)
R60: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (28 sts)
Begin stuffing body.
R61: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (21 sts)
R62: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (14 sts)
Finish stuffing.
R63: *Dec 1*, rep 7 times. (7 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end.
OVERALLS
Using blue yarn,
R1: 7 sc in magic ring. (7 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (14 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (21 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (28 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (35 sts).
R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (42 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (49 sts)
R8: *Sc 6, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (56 sts).
R9: *Sc 7, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (63 sts)
R10-22: Sc 63
Working in rows (vs. continuously around in a circle):
Row1: Sc 17, ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
Row2-7: Sc 17, ch 1, turn. (17 sts).
Fasten off and weave in end. Now make same panel on opposite side of overalls. Count 14 or 15 stitches across left side of panel (when panel facing you). Attach yarn with slilp stitch.
Row1: Ch 1, sc 16, ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
Row2-7: Sc 17, ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
STRAPS (make 2)
Using blue yarn,
Ch 3
R1-28: Sc 2, ch 1, turn.
Once measures about 6.5”, strap splits to form hole for button:
Ch 2 on one side. Fasten off. Attach yarn on other side. Chain 3, sc 1 to join to other side. Ch 1, turn, sc 2. Fasten off and weave in eneds. Strap measures about 7” in total.
FRONT POCKET:
Using blue yarn,
Ch 9
R1-4: Sc 8, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
R5: Dec 1, sc 4, dec 1. (6 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
SIDE POCKETS (make 2):
Using blue yarn,
Ch 9
R1: Sc 8
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Assembly of Overalls:
ARMS (make 2)
Using yellow yarn,
R1: 7 sc in magic ring.
R2-24: Sc 7
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.
GLOVE BASE (make 2)
Using black yarn,
R1: 5 sc in magic ring. (5 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (10 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times. (15 sts)
R4-5: Sc 15
R6: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 5 times. (10 sts)
R7: Sc 10
Fasten off and weave in ends.
FINGERS (make 4)
Using black yarn,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 2 times. (8 sts)
R3-4: Sc 8
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.
THUMBS (make 2)
Using black yarn,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2-3: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.
Assembly of gloves:
BOOTS/LEGS (make 2)
Using black yarn,
Ch 7
R1: Sc 6 starting in second chain from hook (choose one side), then work 6 sc on opposite side of chain. (12 sts)
R2: Sc 12
R3: Sc 2 in each sc around. (24 sts)
R4: Sc 24
R5: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep around. (36 sts)
R6-7: Sc 36
R8: Through back loops only, sc 36.
R9: Sc 14, *dec 1* 4 times, sc 14. (32 sts)
R10: Sc 12, *dec 1* 4 times, sc 12. (28 sts)
R11: Sc 10, *dec 1* 4 times, sc 10. (24 sts)
R12: Sc 24
Switch to blue yarn,
R13-15: Sc 24
Fasten off and stuff. Attach to body.
FACE DETAILS:
EYELIDS (make 2 upper and 2 lower)
Upper (longer)
Using yellow yarn,
Ch 11
R1: Sl stitch to first ch from hook, sc 9, sl st 1.
Fasten off. Glue/sew onto top of eye.
Lower (shorter)
Using yellow yarn,
Ch 10
R1: In second ch from hook, sc 9.
Fasten off. Glue/sew onto bottom of eye.
GOGGLES (make 2)
Using gray yarn,
Ch 31
R1-2: Sc 30, ch 1, turn. (30 sts)
R3: Sc 30
Fasten off.
R4: Join yarn in third ch from hook with slip stitch. Chain 1, sc 25 (26 sts with two extra stitches on each side from previous rows). Ch 1, turn.
R5-7: Sc 26, ch 1, turn. (26 sts)
R8: Sc 26
Fasten off. Leave long end for sewing. Fold strip lengthwise and sew ends together. Bend ends together and sew to form a circle. Sew two goggles together (see pictures to see where).
GOGGLE STRAP
Using black yarn,
Ch 5,
R1-63: Sc 4, ch 1, turn.
R64: Ch 4
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Strap should measure about 11” (check to see if it fits snugly around head when attached to goggles). Sew straps to goggles.
GOGGLE SIDE DETAIL (make 2)
Using gray yarn,
Ch 5,
R1: Sc 4, ch 1, turn.
R2: Sc 4
Fasten off. Fold lengthwise and sew together. Attach to sides of goggle.

Now you have a minion to do your bidding and accompany you everywhere you go! Try out different facial expressions (surprised, suspicious, scared) or make them cyclopses :) Each minion has their own personality! The sky’s the limit!
The minions from “Despicable Me” are copyright of Universal Pictures and Illumination Entertainment. This pattern is copyright of Stephanie of All About Ami (October 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.


This easy-to-make teddy hat is the perfect gift for any newborn! It’s a wonderful way to show your love and support with this soft and cute accessory that will keep a newborn warm and looking uber adorable :D
Note: Feel free to follow along with my blog post here to see step-by-step photos.
Materials
HAT
R1: *Chain 3, 11 dc* in magic ring. Sl st in top of beg ch-3 (12 sts).
R2: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st, *2 dc in each dc* around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 (24 sts).
R3: Ch 3, *2 dc in next dc, dc 1 in next dc* around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 (36 sts).
R4-9: Ch 3, dc 35, sl st in top of beg ch-3 (36 sts).
Finish off.
EARS
R1: 6 sc in magic ring.
R2: Sc 2 in each sc around (12 sts)
R3-6: Sc 12
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Cut out two semi-circles of tan felt. Sew onto ears with brown embroidery floss. Sew open end of ears together. Sew ears ontop of hat.
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (September 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Make a baby version of my P.J. Teddies if you’re looking for an extra cute, cuddly and petite amigurumi :)
Materials:
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). Feel free to follow along with my blog post here to see step-by-step photos.
HEAD
Using brown yarn,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5-10: Sc 24
R11: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Add safety eyes and stuff head firmly.
R12: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
R13: *Sk 1 sc, sc 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end.
EARS (make 2)
Using brown yarn,
R1: 3 sc in magic ring. (3 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew ontop of head. Cut two semi-circles out of beige felt. Glue/sew felt pieces onto ears.
LEGS (make 2) + BODY
Using blue yarn,
R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)
R2-3: Sc 4
For the first leg, fasten off (no need to leave long end for sewing). For the second leg, DO NOT cut off the yarn. Chain 3 and join with slip stitch through both loops of a sc on the first leg. See diagram below:

Single crochet around first leg (3 sc), Sc across one side of three chains joining legs (3 sc), Sc around second leg (3 sc) and Sc across other side of three chains joining legs (3 sc). There should be 12 sts in total. What we just did will count as the first row of the body. See diagram below (numbering of stitches in brackets):

BODY
R1: 12 sc around
R2-8: 12 sc
Sew button onto body. Stuff firmly. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew body to head.
ARMS (make 2)
Using brown yarn,
R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)
R2: Sc 4
Switching to blue yarn,
R3-4: Sc 4
Stuff firmly.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to sides of body.
Adding details:
- Cut out oval using beige felt. Using black embroidery floss, embroider nose onto beige oval as shown in picture. Glue nose onto face.
- Cut two ovals out of pink felt. Glue ovals underneath eyes as shown in picture.
Now you’ve made an adorable baby P.J. teddy to accompany the bigger ones. Doesn’t he look so sweet wearing his onesie? Click here to make the bigger versions of the P.J. Teddies. If you have any questions or find any errors, feel free to contact me. Thanks and good luck!

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Make your own sweet P.J. teddies who are ready for bed!
Materials:
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). Feel free to follow along with my blog post here to see step-by-step photos.
HEAD
Using brown yarn,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-14: Sc 42
R15: *Sc 5, dec 1*, rep 6 times (36 sts)
R16: *Sc 4, dec 1*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
R17: *Sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R18: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Add safety eyes and stuff head firmly.
R19: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
R20: *Sk 1 sc, sc 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end.
EARS (make 2)
Using brown yarn,
R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (8 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew ontop of head. Cut two semi-circles out of beige felt. Glue/sew felt pieces onto ears.
LEGS (make 2) + BODY
Using pink or blue yarn,
Ch 3
R1: To make an oval shape, Sc into the left side of the next three chains. Sc into the right side of the same three chains. (6 sts) See diagram below (stitch # in brackets):

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
R3: In back loops only, Sc 12. (12 sts)
R4: Sc 5, dec 1, dec 1, Sc 5. (10 sts)
R5: Sc 4, dec 1, dec 1, Sc 4. (8 sts)
R6-8: Sc 8 (8 sts)
For the first leg, fasten off (no need to leave long end for sewing). For the second leg, DO NOT cut off the yarn. Go through both loops of a sc on the current leg (with yarn attached) and then both loops of a sc on the first leg (4 loops on hook together). Sc all 4 loops together. Sc around the legs (going around first leg and then second leg) working clockwise around the join. There should be 14 stitches that we single crocheted normally with the join (connecting both legs) bringing the total to 15 stitches. What we just did will count as the first row of the body:
BODY
R1: 15 sc around (14 sts + 1 st for join. From now on, we will ignore the join, only counting the 14 outside sts)
R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (21 sts)
R3-5: Sc 21
R6: *Sc 5, dec 1*, rep 3 times (18 sts)
R7-11: *Sc 18. (18 sts)
R12: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
Sew buttons onto body. Stuff firmly. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew body to head.
ARMS (make 2)
Using brown yarn,
R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (8 sts)
R3: Sc 8
Stuff firmly.
R4: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 2 times (6 sts)
Switching to pink or blue yarn,
R5-10: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to sides of body.
Adding details:
- Cut out oval using beige felt. Using black embroidery floss, embroider nose onto beige oval as shown in picture. Glue nose onto face.
- Cut two ovals out of pink felt. Glue ovals underneath eyes as shown in picture.
Now you have a sweet P.J. teddy who is ready to accompany you to sleep as you dream away. The sky’s the limit for the pajama colours- you can even make the teddies match your little ones or your own pajamas! To complete the P.J. Teddy family, click here for the Baby P.J. Teddy pattern. If you have any questions or find any errors, feel free to contact me. Thanks and good luck!

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.